Section 19: Z3 Roadster Version 2.0 Table of Contents: 19.0: Overview 19.1: Body 19.2: Engine 19.3: Suspension & Steering 19.4: Brakes 19.5: HVAC 19.6: Electrical 19.7: Performance 19.8: Care, Cleaning & Feeding 19.9: Misc ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19.0: Overview ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- The Z3 first appeared to most of the world in the James Bond movie "GoldenEye". BMW's marketing gurus teamed with Neiman Marcus to sell a special edition BMW Z3 "James Bond" roadster that mimicked the look of the car in the Bond movie. The car was available in Neiman Marcus's 1995 Christmas Book, and the initial quantity of 100 cars was sold in a few hours. Neiman Marcus then negotiated with BMW to sell more of the special edition roadsters (if anyone has a press release on the exact number of additional NM roadsters produced, please email ariley@stata.com so this can be updated). The engine for the first model year of the US Z3 was a bored-out to 1.9 liters version of the common 1.8 liter 4-cylinder from the 318. In other areas of the world, the 1.8 liter engine was standard, with the 1.9 liter version available as an option. Midway through the 1996 production run, the battery of the Z3 was moved to the trunk in preparation for the forthcoming 1997 2.8 liter six cylinder Z3 model. This provided marginally better weight distribution, along with a nicer layout for the tools in the trunk. At the same time as the battery move, the amplifier for the factory radio was moved from its carpeted bubble forward of the trunk lid to a carpeted bubble at the right floor of the trunk. An M version of the Z3 is in production for Europe, and a U.S. version is in the works. Production of the U.S. spec M roadster will begin in the spring of 1998. The Euro spec M roadster has the same 321 hp engine from the Euro M3. The official word on the engine in the U.S. M roadster is that it will have the same 240 hp engine from the U.S. M3. However, there is a rumor that BMW is testing a 272 hp engine to be used in both the U.S. M roadster and the U.S. M3. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19.1: Body ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- The 1997 2.8 liter Z3 has a slightly wider rear track than the 1.9/1.8 liter model: 58.8 inches as compared to 56.3 inches. This leads to a slightly larger overall width for the 2.8 of 68.5 inches compared to 66.6 inches. The 2.8 spec sheet shows a height of 50.9 inches compared to 50.7 inches for the 1.9/1.8 liter model, but perhaps the latter was driven a bit/had some tire wear before the measurement. ;) How do I install the rear mud flaps? Take the rear wheels off first and then reach under the back bumper to hold the little clip that the 2 screws attach to down until you get them started. After that, the install is a snap. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19.2: Engine ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Several owners have installed K&N cone intake air filters. There are mixed opinions about this--some believe that the hot air from the engine is negating any effect the more free air flow is having: I have taken mine off the car, and quite frankly the car (at least in the summer) feels like it has a little more torque (low end). Also my a/c works much better now. and Let me add (since I know you are also in Texas) that several of us have questioned the performance of the K&N filter. It has a flaw in that it is not vented with fresh (ie cool) outside air. Our theory is that the filter does allow more air in, but it is drawing some of the air off the engine (hot) so the end result might actually be lower air mass. I'm playing around with a heat shield device that would get rid of this problem but all I'm doing is bending and cutting some metal. and here is what someone with a 3-series has to say The guy running the Dyno suggested that the K&N equiped car was suffering from "fan wash" (turbulence from the radiator fan). He also felt that if we shielded the K&N on the engine side of the filter that HP and Torque would increase. We found a piece of cardboard and the Dyno operator's assistant was instucted to hold (by hand) this piece of card board while the test was being performed. WOW!!! WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! HP went up to 217 and torque was consistently higher then mine was at stock (or without air filter element). What I'm saying here: All of the debate about cool/hot air under the hood is nice...but you guys with the cone type filters really need to forget the snorkel (better yet do the snorkel, it can't hurt), but FIRST AND FOREMOST...PUT a shield between the engine and the filter (aluminum would be good for both air wash and heat)...this will show a consistent and measurable performance gain over just stickin' on a cone filter!!!! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19.3: Suspension & Steering ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quotes from the December 2nd AutoWeek regarding their long term Z3: Rear Springs: "By checking ride height, [the dealers] discovered that both rear springs were too short: The left spring was 9mm out of spec, the right one 15mm out. The springs must be within 7mm of the designated length to be acceptable. A [BMW] spokesman said that after installing new rear springs in our car--now, both are within 6mm of designated length--BMW began to inspect other Z3s, and discovered that several cars made early in the production run also had rear springs outside of the bad of tolerance. The spokesman said that dealerships are checking Z3s as the cars' owners bring them in them in for routine maintenance. He also foudn that our tires were overinflated; the tires were reset to the recommended 29 psi" Vibration Aborber: "...[the dealership and BMW] installed a vibration absorber that became standard equipment after our car rolled off the assembly line. The damper is designed to reduce vibration in the drivetrain, and has nothing to do with the suspension system, which seems to work much better now that its rear springs and tire pressures are proper." ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19.4: Brakes ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19.5: HVAC ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- My blue air conditioning button and/or my yellow recirculation button become excessively warm after being engaged for some lenth of time. Is there a fix? Yes. Here is the BMW service bulletin: In case of customer complaint, replace the switch with PART NUMBER 61 31 1 380 557 (the "0" in 380 might be a "D") Warranty Information:Parts and labor are reimbursable under warranty Defect Code: 64 11 63 14 00 Labor Operation: 61 31 085 Labor Allowance: 3 FRU and, here are an owner's comments on the fix "The dealer replaced both the bulbs in the AC and RECIRC lights. Definitely reduced the brightness at night and buttons are much cooler to the touch. It was all covered by the dealer." ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19.6: Electrical ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19.7: Performance ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Does anyone make a supercharger for the Z3? Both Bell Engineering (in San Antonio, TX) and Sebring (in Atlanta, GA) make supercharger kits for the 1.9l Z3 (if anyone has any information on superchargers for the 2.8l Z3, please email ariley@stata.com). As of this writing, neither kit is quite ready for sale to the public. The kits are each rumored to cost about $4000. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19.8: Care, Cleaning, & Feeding ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have heard there is some sort of rear window protector. What is it? There is a free flannel cover--ask your dealership for it. Don't let them make you pay for it. How should I clean the rear window? Comment from a Z3 message board member that met with general agreement: The ONLY stuff to use is Meguiar's #10 and #17. How should I care for my convertible top? (before you read this response, you should know that the person who wrote it was named "anal Z3 owner of the week" for writing it. :-) I've owned various roadsters for all of my adult life, some for as long as 25 years. The care the Z3 requires is very similar and basic. This is what I do.... I vacuum the canvas top using a soft brush attachment and only wash it when warranted. I clean the plastic window with a VERY soft mitt and lots of mildly soapy water. To clean and polish the window I use Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #17 and #10, inside and out, following the printed instructions. When folding the top I place a Queen sized, soft, flannel flat bed sheet folded then rolled to form a cylinder about 3" in diameter and perhaps 40" in length. I place this inside the crease that the window forms as it is folding, pushing the roll toward the front of the car to force the window to fold in a gentle arc rather than a hard crease. As the top begins to nest in it's folded position, I place two small (6"x6") sheets of soft plastic between the outer surface of the fabric covering the corners of the stretcher bars and the opposing canvas surfaces these areas rub against. This seems to work well at preventing the canvas from scuffing as it bounces around beneath the boot. I've had the Z3 nealy 9 months and have no creases or blemishes whatsoever in the plastic window or canvas top. Granted, this is a pain in the ass but I tend to leave the top down for extended periods so I don't have to go through this very often and it works quite well. I also use small pieces of very soft foam to fill the gaps in the boot near the door jams. This prevents dust from accumulating on the top while stowed, since dust is the cause of most of the abbrasion that clouds and scratches the window. I hope this helps. How should I care for the interior of my Z3? Lexol leather cleaner and conditioner products are very popular with the BMW followers. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19.9: Misc ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- What will the M roadster cost in the U.S.? BMW has not named a price. However, there are good odds that it will be between $40,000 and $50,000. If you want the latest rumor, it is between $42,000 and $45,000. No word yet on what options that would or would not include. Which wind deflector should I buy? There are two different wind deflectors. One (the old style) mounts on the seatbelt towers, and the other (the new style) mounts just forward of them. You have to decide for yourself based on the advantages and disadvantages of both. The old style blocks more wind, but installs on the seatbelt towers (meaning an aftermarket rollbar can not be installed) and can not be folded down when the top is up, which may block your rear visibility at night. The new style blocks less wind (but is still effective) and can be folded down when the top is up, improving night visibility. The old style windscreen is relatively easy to install--you can probably do it yourself. The new style windscreen is harder to install--your dealer will probably charge you 2.5 hours labor. I've seen pictures of the new windscreen, and it looks like it blocks the top storage compartment. How can I access it? The new windscreen is designed to flip up out of the way so you can access the top storage compartment. I have the old windscreen and noticed it tilts forward a bit. I wondering if this should be corrected so that it is vertical or is the forward tilt the way it is when ya'll installed it. I would think the angle could affect the amount of wind blowing. The normal position for it is tilted slightly forward. How do I raise the roof while I'm sitting in the car? There are two methods that people have found to work: The Fossett Maneuver: After a week, I figured out that if you don't fold the roof locking handles in when you put the top down, you can reach over your shoulder with your left arm and hook your index finger on the chrome hook of the locking handles. At that point just pull. It's still a bit of effort, but the motion is in a straight line and much better than the right handed center pull. or The Elephant Trunk: I can't claim ownership to the name (from what I remember, one of the kids of a 'board member' gave the process that hame) but if you reach back with your right arm and grab the roof handle and then with your left hand, grab your right wrist you can raise the roof while sitting in the car. The name is a result of the kid telling his dad (I don't think it was a mom) that he looks like an elephant raising his trunk over his head and then swinging it down. Anyway, I've tried it and it works! If you have the flannel window cover on the window, you can then unclip it from the roof frame and pull in into the car. My seat makes these funny clicking noises sometimes. What can I do? If your seat is in the lowermost position, try raising it a little bit. This has worked for many people. If that doesn't work, take it to your dealer. I can hear some sort of clicking noise from the outside of the car. What could it be? Clicks can occur for several simple reasons. Check the inside of your tires for barcode labels--they may come half off and tick against something. A rock stuck in the tread of your tire can cause a similar noise. My speedometer reads 3 or 4 MPH higher than the on-board computer. What is wrong? It is believed that the government says that the speedometer can not be wrong on the low side, so car manufacturers may build in a little error on the high side. Some people say to trust the on-board computer over the speedometer.